If you’re looking for a dish that’s hearty, comforting, and full of flavor, Székely stew (Székelykáposzta) should be at the top of your list. This traditional Hungarian dish combines tender pork, tangy sauerkraut, smoked bacon, and a touch of paprika, simmered together until rich and flavorful. It’s a dish that warms both the body and the soul, perfect for chilly evenings or holiday gatherings.
Despite being called Székely, meaning “Transylvanian,” the dish isn’t actually named after the region. According to legend, it was invented in 1846 by József Székely, a Hungarian archivist, who famously combined leftover pork pörkölt with cabbage stew. Another legend suggests that Sándor Petőfi, the celebrated Hungarian poet and revolutionary, tasted it and gave it its enduring name.
Traditionally, this stew is made in large batches, and the flavor only improves after a day or two, making it a perfect dish for entertaining or meal prep. Serve it with crusty bread and a dollop of sour cream, and you have a truly comforting meal.
[jpshare]
Ingredients
Serves 6
3 Tbsp sunflower oil (or neutral oil)
3 oz (100 g) smoked bacon, diced
3.5 oz (100 g) pancetta, diced
1 large white onion, chopped (or 3 medium onions, 450 g)
4–6 garlic cloves, crushed
1½ lbs (700 g) pork shoulder, cut into bite-sized pieces
2.2 lbs (1 kg) sauerkraut — rinse if very sour
1 Tbsp sweet paprika
1 tsp black pepper
- 1-2 dried bay leaves
1 tsp salt (adjust to taste depending on sauerkraut)
1 tsp dried marjoram (or oregano and thyme mix as substitute)
1½ cups sour cream (350 ml) — for thickening
¼ cup all-purpose flour (30 g)
½ cup sour cream (150 ml) — for serving
Optional: crusty white bread, for serving
Method
Render the bacon:
In a large pot, cook the diced smoked and regular bacon over medium heat until the fat is rendered and pieces start to crisp.Sauté the aromatics:
Add the chopped onion and crushed garlic to the pot. Sauté until soft and fragrant, about 5–7 minutes.Add spices:
Sprinkle in the paprika, black pepper, salt, bay leaves and marjoram – or use an oregano and thyme as a substitute. Add a splash of water (about ¼ cup / 60 ml) to prevent burning and stir to combine.Cook the base:
Let this mixture simmer gently for about 30 minutes, adding small amounts of water as needed to keep it moist.Add the pork:
Stir in the bite-sized pork chunks. Cover and cook for 10 minutes.Add the sauerkraut:
Stir in the sauerkraut and continue simmering until the pork is tender and the flavors are well combined, about 30–40 minutes more. Taste and adjust salt or spices as needed.Thicken with sour cream:
In a small bowl, whisk 1½ cups (350 ml) sour cream with the flour until smooth. Temper the mixture with a few tablespoons of hot liquid from the stew, then stir it back into the pot. Let simmer gently for 5–10 minutes until slightly thickened.Serve:
Ladle the stew into bowls. Top with a spoonful of the remaining ½ cup (150 ml) sour cream and serve with crusty white bread on the side.
More precisely, the creator of this dish was János Székely, county librarian in Buda town, who arrived one day in 1886 too late to the nearby inn to have lunch. As there was only limited choice of food at that hour, on his request the innkeeper mixed the above mentioned leftover ingredients. The improvised dish was tasty and Székely’s friend Sándor Petőfi, Hungarian nation poet witnessing this, next time he ordered the same for himself naming the dish “Székely goulash” though eventually it isn’t goulash. It became popular under this name, the sour cream was added to the recipe later.
(Source: Elek Magyar – Cookbook of the Gourmet Master)
Something wrong. Petofi died in 1849, the lunch date is 1886, so he could not witness it.
Where from do you know the lunch date?
You wote 1886 for the lunch date.
Peter
You absolutely right! I mistyped the date. I wanted to write 1846 instead of 1886. Sorry!
I find that 3-4 crushed garlic cloves enriches the taste.
Also, some red wine – half a cup or even more.
And if you want it extra special, a few
pieces of smoked rib or pieces of smoked turkey leg will do wonders.
My family loves this dish.
I’m sure there would be a dozen more versions of this story, I heard the story from my father who was a Transylvanian and identifyEd as Hungarian, he said Petofi the poet was the hungry guy and the inn was in the Sekely region of transylvania, I’m not sure who Janos was, and probably doesn’t matter because my memory is not good, especially after 50 years.
I’m curious if there is a real, contemporary mention of this entire narrative someplace, or if it was simply made up over time.
History
According to legend, the recipe for this dish is attributed to József Székely, a county archivist from the 19th century who was a contemporary and friend of the Hungarian poet Sándor Petőfi. In 1846, while dining at the Komló Garden on Gránát Street in Pest, they found the available dishes running out. In response to Székely’s request, the innkeeper served a concoction made by mixing leftover sauerkraut stew with pork stew. Allegedly, Petőfi ordered the same dish on a subsequent occasion, referring to it as “Székely-cabbage.”[1]
The recipe is not found in József C. Dobos’s 1881 Hungarian-French cookbook, but it does appear in Ágnes Zilahy’s 1891 “Valódi magyar szakácskönyv” (Genuine Hungarian Cookbook) in the section on side dishes.[2][3]
According to Wikipedia
This reply is not related, but didn’t know how else I can reach you.
You seem very knowledgeable of Hungarian history. Would you be interested in discussing a piece of President Kennedy era political memorabilia?
I am 82 years old, born in Hungary, now an American citizen living in Ohio?
[email protected] – e-mail me if interested
It’s nice for a legend, but what is the credible evidence that it happened that way? For example, was it written by Petőfi or Székely, or even by the innkeeper or another eyewitness?
Regardless as to how this delicious dish came about, it is my American husband’s favorite meal!
I prepare it exactly as the recipe directs and it is always a winner!!
I remember my Grandmother throwing in some pepper corns and a couple pieces of smoked meat. Easily one of my most favorite Hungarian Dishes.
I’m British but have been living and cooking in Hungary for 45 years. The version I learnt of this absolute favourite includes pearl barley (another favourite of mine from English stews). Improves the consistency no end! I also add a few cubes of smoked meat.
Adding pearl barley results another dish: “pearl cabbage” – “gyöngyös káposzta”.
I will try it with pearl barley next time, sounds delicious!